Sunday 4 August 2013

Day 26


We weren't sure if we would be going to the school again today, and although it would have been nice, work on the Barn was more pressing as we still had plenty to do, and not nearly enough time left to do it all in. We had already completed our mission of hockey equipment delivery so it might've been a little indulgent of us anyway.

If we weren't going, then at least it would mean we would have time to hunt for some animal footprints and get them plastercasted for the new steps, and as Rouhan's guys (yes, it's spelt Rouhan not Ruen. Sorry, Rouhan!) were keen to get the cement in it was probably better to spend our time doing that instead.

So it was a mix of disappointment and relief when Tammy came to pick us up to go looking for prints. She suggested that we go up to the Lodge to grab some oil and clingfilm. Clingfilm so it would be easier to remove the casts from the prints, and oil so it would be easier to remove them from the cement.

Before we left, we spoke briefly to Gerhard, who had arranged for Freddie to escort us all up to see the caves in the afternoon! Something else we had hoped to see before we left. Freddie was going to finish work up at the Lodge at 3.00pm, and we would go with Zander and he down to Hopewell where the caves are, which also meant we could pop by the Barn and see how Justin, Frieir and Atchi were getting on with the steps.

We got to Lodge and waited while Tammy sorted the oil and clingfilm. A small black and white bird landed right next to the Cruiser while we waited - it still surprises me just how close many of the wild birds will come to us here - and although I had the camera to hand, it stayed in the shadow of the Cruiser for the most part, denying me of the opportunity to get a really good shot of him.

Not a Fiscal Shrike
When Tammy returned I showed her the picture, and immediately she told me it was a Southern Boubou bird. These are very similar to another local bird, a Southern Fiscal Shrike, but the fiscal has a longer tail feather and perches higher when hunting. As always, she shared her vast knowledge with us and explained that the Fiscal Shrikes are from the lanius genus, and lanius is from Latin meaning 'butcher'. They are named 'butcher birds' because after they catch and kill their prey - usually small rodents and lizards - they hang them from small thorns near their nests, or sometimes even barbed wire. This helps to attract females as they are showing that they can provide for them. Come, my dears, come and look at me lovely lizards!

With clingfilm and oil, and our mystery guest identified, it was off down the game track to the first waterhole. Not much was there, other than some reasonably fresh elephant dung, some bably elephant dung, good for our growing dung collection, and two ducks swimming in a sea of green. Well, more of a pond of green. The ducks eat the algae, so it must be like swimming in pea soup.

A real pea souper
So it was back into the Cruiser and on to the next waterhole where Tammy had seen the elephant herd recently, so probably a good place to get an elephant's footprint. On the way, as we munched on Tammy's dinner of Mini Cheddars, we saw lots of kudu, as always, and several monkeys. There were so many monkeys, including baby ones and we guessed it was probably the whole family on a day out. They were too quick for the camera though, apart from one who sat and watched us watching him. A bit further on we saw three zebras, two ran off but one of which seemed pretty chill, and just stood there quite happy, about 15-20 feet away. Maybe he just likes being photographed.

Kudu? Yes, I kud.
You scratch your back, and I'll scratch mine
This is my best side, you know
Then we arrived at the other waterhole and it immediately looked more promising. Huge footprints were visible in the water even before we parked up. Apparently, this is a very popular spot for the herd. Around the far side, we found what we were looking for, some good examples of prints that we should be able to take casts from. As well as elephant prints, including a good baby elephant one, there were also grey heron, normal zebras (the mountain zebras are smaller hoofed), and a large eland. We did the business with the plaster of paris, and went off to look for Avis while we waited for them all to harden.

A waterhole, but not ours
Holes in water in a waterhole
Actual photo evidence of big foot

We worship Tammy...quite literally

Standing in the footprints of giants
Avis? Avis!...where are you, eh?
Unfortunately Avis was not to be found that day, and time was getting short. A shame as Kira especially would have loved to have seen him and I really wanted her to have that fantastic experience that Max and I had. We did see the herd though, which was at least something.

We kept an eye for more prints on the way back, and although we saw quite a few, like the porcupine ones below (you can see where his quills have dragged across the sand), the ground was too sandy to get a decent cast.

Porkie pie tracks
We began heading back and on the way  we saw a Pale Chanting Goshawk. I'm pretty pleased that I'm recognising certain birds on sight now (thanks to Tammy's excellent tuition!*) and I guessed it was a type of goshawk, even if I wasn't sure what type.

*Disclaimer: If I ever get something wrong, there's a 99% chance that I'm confused, not Tammy.

That handsome creature is a Pale Chanting Goshawk
On getting back to the waterhole, we discovered three red hartebeast relaxing in the sun. It looked like they didn't really want to move, but our presence in the truck was too clearly too much for them and they reluctantly sauntered off with a definite air of grumpiness at having been evicted. In the bush, Toyota Land Cruiser has dominance. It's interesting how they are lying around with each facing a different direction... I'm guessing this is so they can see any predators from any direction. Or they've had a falling out and just not talking to each other.

We were leaving anyway...
Not happy hartebeast
The casts well hard by now, so we collected them all and were quite pleased with the results, especially the enormous elephant footprint. We managed to get them all out without breaking any as well, result! After we had them all it was time to go back. On the way we saw this cute little thing, which I believe was a Steenbok.


Casting couch
Cuter than Bambi
Also on the way back we had a stroke of luck finding the remains of an elder kudu that Matt and/or Kalahari had killed fairly recently. The horns were in really good condition, and large, and even the jawbone was intact and nearby too. It still had fur on the skull! As it would make a great addition to the Barn exhibits - we already have a baboon skull and a springbok so far - we loaded it up (it was heavy!) in the back of the Cruiser, and secured it with the rear seatbelt to save it from bouncing around and breaking in the back. Shortly after, we saw a large herd of zebras, but these were quite skittish, and took off as soon as we approached.

If you want to get ahead, get a skull. And horns

Clunk click, every trip!
Say..isn't that Gerald in the back..? WH...WHAT HAVE THEY DONE TO GERALD??
More luck was in store for us as we neared the Lodge when we came around a corner to see a zebra and it's baby standing in the road. It was great as like the first one we saw, they didn't immediately run off, they were really relaxed and calmly ambled across the road. And even better, the baby began suckling on it's mother for a long time, giving us plenty of time to capture it all on film and in pictures. It was a lovely sight!




We got back to reception where we collected our staff lunches, and somehow managed to carry them, and the kudu skull, and the casts, and our bag, between us. We put the skull on the porch ready to take down to the Barn (but I think it needs a proper clean before we can mount it anywhere first) with the others, making it look like we were just starting up a voodoo business. A leisurely lunch until Zander picked us up at 3 to take us with Freddie up to the caves. Kira got busy doing the family diary while Max and I went back to reception to try and get some blogging done.

The voodoo, that kudu, so well
The lions had him over for dinner

2:59. That means Zander should arrive any secon...ah here he is. Quick stop to pick Freddie up, with Sheep (Tammy's sheep) baaaing at us the whole time, then off to see the caves. Passing the Barn on the way we saw Justin, Atchi and Freeak busy on the steps (pronounced free-ak. It wasn't Freer or any of the other variations I've been using up until now at all. Oh dear. Sorry, Freeak!). It looks like they're doing a good job down there. Then up the steepest and bumpiest track I've ever seen a 4x4 handle, until we could go no further. We jumped out and made the short but steep walk up the hill until we reached the caves we've been looking forward to seeing.

Freddie was great, and very informative, and showed us all the bushmen paintings and handprints, while giving us the history and context, and described what the bushmen did all those hundreds of years ago. The caves had only recently been discovered, about 8 or so years ago. It's amazing to be somewhere with so much ancient history around you. Some of the paintings had faded over time, and no-one really knows how many have fallen away with the rock they were painted on, but it was still possible to see many pictures of hunters and the animals they hunted of that time.

From the caves we could also see our waterhole, which looked fantastic from so high up. We could also see where the rocks opposite have been pushed up over millenia into an arch. Under the arch is apparently where the bushmen would hold their ceremonies.

Freddie, our guide, Zander, our driver
A lot steeper than it looks!







The Barn and our waterhole!
Seeing the caves was fascinating, and we all really enjoyed it. Even the drive up and down the hill was great fun in itself! Well done to Zander for managing to coax a sometimes reluctant Land Cruiser up such a difficult track, and for getting it back down with careening down the hill without killing us all! :)

We stopped by the Barn on the way back and had a quick look at the guys' progress. It was looking good. I don't think they were especially happy that they still couldn't cement the steps, but we were doing the best we could. We would like to get the rest tomorrow - there's still kudu and rhino to cast by our waterhole, but it all depends. We shall see!

After a long day, it was back home for dinner and then to bed. Apart from yours truly of course, who had to spend his sleepy time trying to get the blog updated... :)


*Please note: The blog is currently four days behind (It's now Sunday night) and as we leave here tomorrow morning for our south coast tour, I'm not sure when we'll be able to update again. Hopefully we'll have internet access at whatever backpacking lodge we stay in.. but it should be fairly soon. Until then, watch this space for the reports of our last few days of the project. There's still lots to tell you! Thank you for following. Stay tuned!


Thursday 1 August 2013

Day 25

I'm pleased to report that clearly someone must have had a word with the sun, and it's beginning to get the hang of this light and heat business at last. This morning was positvely balmy. Even the wind seemed to have gotten bored of chilling me to the core and was off bothering others somewhere else as well.

Another plus is that we were all ready to go at 8:30! Or thereabouts. Ish. However, we weren't entirely sure at this point exactly where we were going to go, as there were rumours (...so i applied basically) that we might be going to visit the local school that day. Or we might just be going to the Barn. We ate the rest of our cheese on toast and drank tea discussing our unknown destiny for the day, until we decided that the best thing was for Max and myself to go to reception and to ask, and if we could, to put an end the uncertainty that faced us.

We met Gerhard in his office (Gerhard always knows, and if he doesn't then you're probably asking the wrong question) and he told us that Tammy was already on her way to pick us up, and that yes! We were going to the school! Something we've been looking forward to since we arrived. We hurried back to the house to find Tammy there waiting for us, and Ines and Kira preparing to leave with the hockey sticks and balls, donated very kindly by Kira's hockey club in the UK (Thank you! Oxford Hockey Club!). We all jumped in the Landie and rattled off down the road for an hour's drive, Tammy answering every bird and animal related question we could throw at her on the way.


We arrived at the school, named Braceville Elementary which is a fairly typical example of a rural school over here so we're told, and as we were wondering whether to open the gates and just drive in, a very softly-spoken young man came and met us, introduced himself as Aquarius, and invited us all in.

He knew about our visit as the Head (who unfortunately couldn't be there as he was away at a conference on teaching children of all ages - a great shame as we'd have really loved to have met him) had told him of our visit previously, but he didn't seem to be entirely sure what exactly we wanted to do while we were there. As we hadn't really planned anything beforehand, other than handing over the hockey equipment, he wasn't the only one!

We unloaded ourselves and the donated hockey sticks, Tammy said goodbye and that she would return around 1pm to pick us up again, and left. Aquarius began by showing us around the school, which consisted of two dormitories - one for girls, one for boys - the kitchen area and dining room, a small admin block and last of all two regular-sized classrooms. All the while with schoolchildren going from here to there, giving us curious looks as they did so, and some shyly peeping around corners.

Aquarius explained that he wasn't a teacher, he was there to look after the kids when the Head was away, and to be involved with them in after-school activities (the children stay at the school all week then go home at weekends), so more of a social worker for the children, and then introduced us to the two immediately lovable nannies, who cooked and cleaned about the place, Wendy and Pinky.

To start with, we decided, Kira would teach them the basics of hockey with Max, and I would take a handful on the five computers they had there. Picking out a mix of ages for me, he called them in and let me get on with it, while the rest would learn hockey in the relatively small and dusty playground.

I asked them to show me what they liked doing on the computers, which was looking at (a very dated version of) MS Encarta. I asked if they had ever used the Paint program, and judging by the 'oooh!'s and 'ahhh!'s when I began drawing a flower with it, I guessed the answer was no. I showed them the basics, and one of the girls, Wandra, seemed to pick it up very quickly and drew an even better flower than my rubbish attempt.

After a while though, unable to communicate well enough to go much deeper into the subject of computers I sensed a little boredom creeping in, and then I remembered I had the videocamera with me, and in my experience, if there's one thing kids find fascinating it's seeing themselves on videos! And so it was this time... the excitement level raised another notch and they really seemed to enjoy dancing and waving, and then watching themselves doing so immediately after. I think they could have done this all day, but eventually it was time to go back to class, as heralded by the school bell.




During this time, outside in the gorgeous sunshine (now this is what all winters should be like) Kira and Max were busy going through the rudimentaries of hockey with Aquarius translating the finer points of whacking a small ball around with an odd shaped stick. They did some practice moves, and then a few mini competitions of relay games and so on, until the break ended and Aquarius clanged the school bell.


All the children gathered in front of us in two very orderly lines, placed a hand on the person in front's shoulder and walked obediently and quietly to their respective classrooms.

With all of us somewhat unsure of how we should proceed, none of us (including Aquarius) having really been in that situation before, we decided to just go and introduce ourselves to the children. With Aquarius translating in Xhosa, he explained to them that we had come to see them and their school, and spend some time with them. We introduced ourselves and wrote our names on the blackboard. A blackboard full of the neatest writing any of us had ever seen on a blackboard before.

He had each stand up and introduce themselves one by one - bringing back memories of how we had to do the same sometimes in our school... something I distinctly remember hating to have to do! - and then asked if they had any questions for us, or about life in England.

A slightly awkward moment followed as it appeared that no, no they didn't have any questions about life in England. Okay... Fortunately one of the older girls, I think feeling a little sorry for us, asked what the food was like there. I don't remember what our answer was, but I don't recall it being particularly interesting, to be honest. As that was pretty much it, we moved quickly along and asked them what they wanted to do when they grew up. As before each child was instructed to stand up, but remembering my aversion to it, I asked if they could just say it while sitting down. They seemed relieved!

Surprisingly, a very large number of them wanted to be policemen (I discovered later that a couple of local policemen had come to visit the school recently, and talk about what it was like to be a policeman, so not too surprising after all). One cheeky one though, likely the joker of the class (he's the happy chap in the blue jumper in the first picture) said he wanted to be a criminal, much to the amusement of his classmates :) The other most popular choice was a nurse, particularly among the girls, but a few boys too, and one lad said a pilot. You could tell he was quite serious about it, and it seemed that as far as he was concerned, it was a matter of when, not if. He had such an air of quiet intelligence and confidence that I believed him.

Then, just as any initial awkwardness was starting to fade, someone suggested we sing an English song. Trying to think of an appropriate song for a class of children that mostly didn't speak english, but also who's ages ranged from 15 down to 6 was terribly difficult, and the best we could come up with was Old MacDonald. We sang a few verses, and initially some of the more older english speaking kids trying to join in where they could, until the whole thing finally crashed to an embarrasing, juddering halt. Ines was up for another verse with another animal (despite getting some of the words and grammar wrong :) but for our sakes, and theirs, we convinced her that enough was enough.

It's just occurred me that in our desperation, we didn't even sing it correctly. We forgot to add each animal sound to the last chorus, as you're supposed to (and is the key ingredient as to what makes the song fun to sing in the first place). One of the simplest songs known to man, aside from Happy Birthday To You, and yet we still got it horribly wrong! As a quartet, I don't think we should consider giving up our day jobs...

Skillfully avoiding another awkward moment, Kira suggested that maybe they would like to sing a song, and between them they decided upon a tribute song about Nelson Mandela, who had in fact personally opened the school in 2000. Theirs was much better than our somewhat disjointed attempt and they seemed to enjoy it a lot more! As did we, even if we had no idea what the lyrics were or meant.

After their song, we abandoned the standing at the front of the class idea and instead asked them to carry on and do whatever they normally do, and we would just join them in their small groups or individually, and have a chat with them. Most of the older ones could speak a certain amount of English, so as so long as it was kept relatively straightforward, we could talk to them easily.

Ines was a big hit with them, especially the younger ones, delighting them with the emu hand puppets she had brought, while Kira was always constantly surrounded, most of them utterly fascinated with her long hair! It was great to see her being so comfortable in the situation, building a rapport with them so easily and effortlessly, it was a joy to watch. I would have liked to take pictures, but feared the appearance of the camera might spoil the moment.



After being proudly shown some of their workbooks, and myself again having some video camera fun with them, Max and I left the girls to it, who were clearly proving themselves much better at this kind of thing, and talked with Aquarius about the school itself for a while. He told us that there were 32 children there, and they stayed there throughout the week and then went home at weekends. This was partly due to the distances some of them lived from the school, as well as easing the strain on their parents, as in most of the areas, particularly the more rural ones, poverty is a hard fact of life.

The school is free to attend, has just the one teacher, the two (adorable) nannies, and of course Aquarius to help and mentor the kids outside of schooltime hours. The hours were from 8am till 2pm, and they were served breakfast, lunch, dinner and supper. The school is entirely funded by the government, but as is usually the case, always in need of more funds and resources.

However, the kids were clearly very happy there and very well looked after, and lacked neither love or attention. They were polite, well-behaved, interesting and bright, and a truly likeable bunch of young people that were a credit to themselves, as well as to the four main people in their lives for the time they spent at school. It was our pleasure to have met each and every one.

I chatted to a few more of the kids (I really wish I could remember their unusual names), and was even taught one to ten by Jonathon. Not in Xhosa or Africaans, but in English! I think he misunderstood me when I asked to learn it in his language, or thought I must be a bit slow and didn't know how to count yet :) Still, it was good to know that I've been getting it right all these years, at least. Then I went outside and joined Max, who was having fun high-fiving some little ones, and showing them some of the cooler handshakes, and filmed the hockey match Kira had organised, something everyone playing seemed to be enjoying a lot.






It seemed like no time at all that 1 o'clock came around, so the children went back to class as we prepared to leave and said our goodbyes, until Tammy arrived shortly after to come and take us back to Kuzuko. We weren't sure if we would be back again, we'd hoped to spend more mornings there, but of course it would be determined by availability of transport and someone to cart us back and forth. Having a much better idea of what to expect would mean we would better prepared if we did get to go again, but we would have to wait and see.

On the way back, we were all a lot quieter than on the journey there, I think we were all letting the experience soak in and considering it all. We all agreed it was a very positive experience and thoroughly enjoyed it, and personally I found that it not only gave me hope for the future of not just the children we met, but the future of the country. That may be too bold a statement, as obviously this was but a tiny glimpse of life here, but even so, it certainly strengthened my faith in humanity, something that is sometimes tested to its limits back in the daily life of the more 'advanced' world of where we come from.

We all hope that our visit was as a good an experience for the children as it was for us (our rendition of Old MacDonald notwithstanding...) and that although we didn't spend more than just a very short time there, it was something that they'll remember positively, and that they got as much fun and joy out of it as we did.

Our sincere thanks to Aquarius for helping us have such a memorable day, and to the kids for putting up with us and making us feel so welcome. And of course, a big Thank You to Catharina, for organising the visit on our behalf. Thank you, all!

After we got back, we had a very late lunch, and then cadged a lift from Jonathon at reception to pop down to the Barn to see how the guys were doing on the steps. We were pleased to see they had so far they had done a great job on them. They weren't there, but we knew they wanted to cement the steps and platform as soon as possible, but as yet we still hadn't been able to take casts of various animal footprints.

They had also finished plastering the wall for the storage space area at the back wall of the Barn. We were going to paint it the same colour as the walls but now we're thinking a nice blue might be better. Whatever we choose, we've got to wait for it to fully dry out first.



As there wasn't enough time left to get any serious work done, we watched Max and Kira try to capture the nearby wildebeast. Their plan was unintentionally thwarted by Joseph and Wellington whose timing couldn't have been worse (or better, if you happen to be a wildebeast) as they came up the road in their Land Rover, causing all of the wildebeast to panic and run away just as they were getting close enough to take a really good pic.

Wildebeast - in cahoots with Jospeh and Wellington
Determined though, they made a similar plan to capture our neighbourhood ostriches, and enlisted my help in ushering them toward Max, with Ines on the video to record it all. However, just as Max got close to them, Joseph and Wellington came back and showed Ines a small snake they had caught not realising she was supposed to be filming. We now believe that they are working together, with the wildebeast and the ostriches, to sabotage our wildlife recording plans... :)

Ostriches - also secretly working with Joseph and Wellington
Jonathon returned a little later, and after grabbing enough firewood for a Braai that night in honour of Frankie, who has looked after us at the Lodge restaurant whenever we've had dinner there, so very very well, and Tammy because she's always such good company, we headed back home to prepare.

We had a lovely time with them both, most of the early evening spent with Frankie and myself outside getting the Braai going, (which was a nightmare as the wood was so damp, but as always my fire-making skills came through in the end...) talking about South Africa and it's people, which was interesting and insightful as it always is with Frankie, and Max and the girls inside planning our itinery for the next two weeks touring the southern coast. They've done a great job of it, some spectacular planning, and I think we're going to continue having a fantastic time here in SA.. and there'll be an awful lot less hard work. And hopefully, there'll be no cement involved at all..... :D